Off-the-beaten-track Rome

You’re probably here because of my blog about being a digital nomad in Rome; if so, this blog will dive a bit deeper into authentic Rome and things you can do here that are less touristic!

Moving to Italy was a pretty last-minute decision. I had a week left and still didn’t have a place to live. For those of you who don't know me, I'm not the most organised and when in Rome, you can't be all over the place. This city is BUSY and there are thousands of tourists coming in and out. It's therefore hard to find accommodation and rather expensive. After endlessly (and frantically) searching for a place to live, I eventually found a shared apartment in Pigneto. This neighbourhood isn't so close to the centre, perhaps 30 mins away by metro and quiet residential. At first, I thought I thought I'd be far away in a boring neighbourhood, probably full of older people (no offence older people). But this turned out to be a blessing in disguise. 

Pigneto is unique to the rest of Rome and has a place in everyone's heart! Whenever someone asked me where I was staying, they were surprised as tourists aren't expected to visit the area. Apparently, this neighbourhood was once an industrial, working-class area and largely avoided by other districts. But this is what makes Pigneto so special. Il Pigneto has some edge, a personality of its own, and has become Rome’s hub of history, art, film, photography and nightlife. Pier Paolo Pasolini (a famous Italian writer and director), was even fond of this neighbourhood. He refers to Pigneto in a lot of his films and novels—and I can see why. 

Pigneto is colourful and vibrant; streets are filled with locals, chatting loudly, laughing and drinking beers. I lived 3 minutes from Via del Pigneto, a favourite hang out spot of mine. It’s a road full of bars, restaurants & clubs— all very different from each other. Around 8 or 9 pm, the road comes to life and that’s the time to visit! This is the ‘young’ alternative neighbourhood, where you can meet locals and have some fun! Here, everyone’s a friend.

Take a walk anywhere around Pigneto and you’ll find walls covered in street art! You'll feel like you're in Berlin or Barcelona- cities very much different from the majestic and historic Rome. Pigneto’s street art was my introduction to Italian literature and cinema with Maupal’s depiction of Pier Paolo Pasolini, located on Via Fanfulla da Lodi, or Mirko Montano’s non-illuderti on Via del Pigneto. Between Pigneto and Tor Pignattara, you can find the tallest street mural in Rome, towering above the neighbourhood at 32 meters. Coffee Break by artist Etam Cru is another one that stands out; he depicts a man drinking a cup of coffee while standing inside a garbage can. Every time you leave the flat, there’s something cool hidden between the streets– making a stroll through Pigneto feel like a treasure hunt! Garbatella is another neighbourhood to check out. It's edgy and full of art- bring your cameras and go there for the day, and at night, hit the local bars!

After checking out the street art, head to one of the cafes for a lunch break! Burro Cream and Coffee is one of my favourites. Go for the pistachio croissant, you won't regret it (I know, I mentioned it again). If you're looking specifically for the pistachio croissants, don't go too late. This delicious pastry is gone by the morning, so get there on time! Necci dal 1924 is another favourite. Here you can work all day in their lovely garden, soak in some sun and taste their delicious pastries. And guess what? This place was made famous by Pasolini's 1961 film L’Accattone and is one of the main social hubs for locals. This place comes to life in the evening and turns into a bar. Necci is open all day, all year round, serving breakfast, lunch, aperitivos, and dinner. Libreria Tuba is a feminist bookstore, bazaar, and bar. If you want to have an intellectual conversation about feminism, meet other bookworms or simply have an aperitif, this is the place for you. 

After exploring the streets of Rome, how about having some food at some of the nearby restaurants? There are loads of small, authentic places to eat and drink here. The best part? You're away from the city centre— meaning you won’t have tourist prices, average food, and queuing. The food here isn't made for tourists, but authentic and honest! Via del Pigneto is the street to go to. It's full of international bars and restaurants! During the night this street turns into a party area from Thursday to Saturday where locals go out and eat, or drink. Each place has a vibe of its own and offers something for any kind of personality.

Apparently, the Italians don't go out clubbing. It's more of a thing you do at fourteen. Instead, they visit bars or go out for meals. Even so, there are loads of trendy clubs to look out for. Pigneto specifically offers an authentic, less commercial or touristic night out.  Fanfulla, is a favourite underground club among locals! For live music venues of all genres, head here! Sparwasser is another place to visit. Although it's not necessarily a club, it's an intercultural hub for art, languages and more. You can listen to live music, dance, attend language exchanges, eat or drink, and meet new faces. It's hard finding the right places as a tourist, but I got you! 

Rome's big. There's so much to do and never enough time to do it all. There are other treasures to be discovered in the city! If you want more unusual, less-touristic places to visit check out this blog for food in Rome: Authentic Restaurants in Rome | numa - BRING SOME SOUL TO TRAVEL (numastays.com)